VicenzaOro: January 2020
Vicenza Oro is one of the most prestigious international jewelry exhibitions and worth visiting destination for discovering designers and famous brands from different countries, gems trading and jewelry manufacturers.
This time I had only one day to visit VicenzaOro, so I went straight to the Design Room dedicated to designers and jewelry brands who experimented with new trends and created jewelry not without artist’s style, expression and aesthetics.
The first booth I visited was BARE Jewelry, a brand by a young Antwerpen based designer Dries Criel. His jewelry is dynamic and not burdened with unnecessary details. Its geometric design is inspired by antique Egyptian jewelry art. I’m impressed by his clear idea, focused on modern chaotic times intersecting and relying on the antique jewelry tradition.
The Italian jewelry brand SICIS needs no introduction. Specializing in mosaic technique, it creates exquisite jewelry with precious stones, gold and pearls using the micromosaic technique with endless chromatic combinations and patterns.
The Russian brand Mousson Atelier from St. Petersburg fascinated me with its geometric and clear design. Paying attention to craftsmanship quality, it is focused on new and innovative trends. Their modern design is versatile and sensitive. The jewelry tradition and contemporary ease attitude are harmoniously intertwined in its work.
The jewelry by a French designer Lydia Courteille I can describe in one word — a poetry. The boldness of interpreting the past, experiments with technology and materials, the fancy combination of textures are like a book requiring thoughtful reading. The design of her jewelry is permeated by her vision and aesthetics. They are not for everyone, and it captures even more.
The next stop was a section dedicated to vintage jewelry. Vintage is no less interesting for me than contemporary jewelry art.
It is a great example of accurate attention to details, technical jewelry solutions, diligent care of any element and interesting design discoveries.
This gold watch bracelet with diamonds was created in France in the 30-40s. On any assembled and created by hand element is put a punch mark and the bracelet itself has an curios opening mechanism (video here).
For me an incredible discovery was a young creator based in France John-Michaël Flaux, who specializes in mechanical art of horology. His aim is to reinterpret the world of watchmaking which is becoming more and more industrial by making it more poetic and extravagant (video here).
The exciting and unforgettable meeting of this fair was with the jewelry of the Italian famous designer Cleto Munari. His art jewelry in collaboration with famous architects, sculptors and artists as well as his own designs, embodying the harmony and balance of form and idea are timeless and influenced many contemporary jewelry designers.