5 jewelry designers spotted at GemGenéve

For the sixth time GemGenève brings together jewelry and gemstone enthusiasts, collectors, designers, and industry professionals.  Dedicating the show mostly to the world of exceptional diamonds, gems, antique and vintage jewelry, it also features emerging designers and jewelers. 

And even though the designer part is not extensively presented, I would like to highlight some of them who, in my opinion, are noteworthy. 

They experiment with materials, forms and technique, pushing the boundaries of traditional jewelry aesthetics and expressing their artistic vision. These artists create pieces that reflect their individual style, ideas, and cultural influences. 

Tom and Jutta Munsteiner

Every time you see “Munsteiner cut” in a jewelry or a gem description, it refers to a unique fantasy style of gemstone cutting developed by the Munsteiner family. They chose a thorny path of abandoning the traditional, “ideal” gemstone design and developed their own creative approach following personal artistic vision. 

The Munsteiner cut involves sculpting gemstones in unconventional shapes and facets to create a distinctive look that showcases the stone’s inner beauty and optical properties. Instead of traditional faceting, Munsteiner cuts gemstones with free-form facets, asymmetric shapes, and deep reflections that capture light in mesmerizing ways.

Their jewelry designs often highlight the gemstone as the focal point, accentuating its individual character and artistic appeal.

Morganite and acquamarine gold double ring by Atelier Munsteiner. Credits Lostinjewels

Elena Okutova

Her jewelry takes you to the world of miracle, fairy tales and ancient times. Each piece has a rich narrative and a mutual permeability of different cultures. The jewelry is carved in wax, cast in silver or gold and crafted using various traditional techniques like engraving, filigree and hot enameling. All jewelry is made in an unique color design. 

Elena creates an intricacy storytelling of ornamentation and composition inspired by eclectic inspiration sources, from medievalism, Renaissance or elusive beauty of nature and fantastical mythology. 

Gold and silver double peony ring by Elena Okutova. Credits Lostinjewels

Wallis Hong

Vibrant colored titanium and aluminum art by Wallis Hong is wonderfully detailed and meticulously crafted. It is accurate, well balanced, any element or curve is intended and calibrated.  

His dreamlike jewelry is somewhere between fantasy and reality.  Openwork butterfly, intricate underwater plant, vivid almost neon blue flower carpet or crocodile embellished with sapphires and diamonds bring us to a surreal dimension, a dreamscape. 

Aluminium gold ring by Wallis Hong. Credits Lostinjewels

Leen Heyne

Leen’s designs are both minimal and sensual emphasizing the meticulous craftsmanship and artistic expression. Clean lines, geometric shapes, and an organic aesthetic are influenced by abstract curves of nature. Leen worked with a single strip of gold which he bends and twists around the central diamond. Leen never uses prongs and claws allowing the metal to embrace it. 

Gold diamond ring by Leen Heyne. Credits Lostinjewels

Austy Lee

Looking to Austy’s jewelry is like listening to music. It has different styles, from psychedelic rhythm through pop punk to cosmology of traditional Chinese musical system. Multicolored experimental and mind-bending designs go hand in hand with unusual mix of materials, improvisation and timeless themes. 

Old Egyptian, Eastern religions or North Europe culture are interpreted in a new way rocking the boat of familiar jewelry aesthetics. Drawing on the past, he embraces the world of endless material and color expression and expands the intriguing possibilities of a jewelry design.

« The Hatshepsut Brooch by Austy Lee. 18k Yellow Gold with Australian Carved Boulder Opal, Colombian Emerald, Blue, Turquiose, Black Red & Yellow Enamel, Blue Sapphires, Fancy Orange & Yellow diamond and White diamonds. Credits Lostinjewels